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Tag: China (Page 5 of 5)

Aunt Fong and Caili Ma – Part 2: Not My Real Aunt, My Chinese Aunt

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Sunday morning’s routine again, with everyone in the church repeating their rituals, except this time I could not have been the only one whose vision kept returning to Ann’s pew as I silently wondered who the other Chinese woman was sitting next to Caili. Since she looked about the same age, I puzzled over what her background might be. As far as I knew, any of the young Chinese international students involved with a church group went to the campus Wesley Foundation, and the small collection of Chinese families who lived in town and gathered for Chinese language church met in another Wesleyan church a mile away. Our church was neither Wesleyan nor international, and we had taken no official steps to attract any Chinese people, yet somehow two middle-aged Chinese women were now part of our otherwise constant assembly.

After the formal worship, over coffee and cookies, I was joined at my folding table by Caili and her friend. Unlike with Caili, I was not very receptive to my first meeting with this stranger, having sunk into a very low mood over my fast approaching job’s end, which added heavily to what I saw as my life’s accumulated woe. So, I only lethargically responded to Caili’s back-and-forth Chinese questions as a favor to my good friend. Caili’s new friend, on the other hand, was delighted by our demonstration of my babyish Chinese skills and giggled with my every pronunciation.

While she relished watching me, one of the American natives, try to speak her language for once, Caili’s friend wasn’t much for conversation in return. Everyone who met her that morning, it seemed, could almost instantly pick up that she only replied to questions by happily nodding and saying, “Yes,” or earnestly attempting a semblance of an answer that was nevertheless incomplete, unintelligible, or at best a tin eared stock response. Depending on the question and the clarity of the speaker, she would either let the words pass over her head or try to come back with a rehearsed phrase I assumed she had picked up from a Chinese English conversation book.

Caili, whose English people correctly described as “broken,” had worked very hard on her studies, and it showed to me that, even if her English seemed “broken,” she had climbed remarkably far up the language ladder. Her friend was a true novice whose dabbling with English allowed her to passively listen with barely discernible comprehension and repeat a few words she had committed to memory, yet she very much wanted to talk with me.

The answers came slowly and I wasn’t sure of them, but for starters I learned that she had visiting professor status at the university, like Caili, which meant she was free to study unattached to any coursework or degree program, and her name was Fang Zhu.

“Fang” was not pronounced like a dog’s tooth, but more like “Fong,” so from here on out I’ll write it “Fong.” And “Zhu” was like a cross between “chew” and “zoo,” or just simply it could be rendered “joo” (the pronunciation was pretty fuzzy to me for awhile, and even now I am never completely confident I am saying it clearly, or that it is even possible to say it clearly), but “joo” doesn’t look very Chinese to me, so I’ll keep it at “Zhu.” “Fong Zhu.”

Fong Zhu seemed briefly elated by our meeting, but I thought that would be the end of it. In fact, I was so jaded that dreary morning that I thought very little of it. Fong Zhu didn’t show up the next week or for the next several weeks, and during that time Caili left for California and I lost my job. Fong Zhu didn’t come back until (I would be told by her much later) Ann sent her an e-mail, asking her where she had been and telling her she missed seeing her. Somehow, I assume through an online copy-and-paste translation tool, Fong Zhu understood enough of the message that she was touched by it and returned to church the next Sunday.

With Aunt Fong

With Aunt Fong

After the service, she came right up to me, chatting away in words I sifted through with much mental computation. One sentiment of hers stood out to me: she wanted to invite me over for a Chinese lunch. Now, I still knew very little about this woman, I was unsure of who she was and why she was so interested in me, so I tried to softly decline the offer. Then, I realized she wouldn’t really understand what I said, so I just mumbled something non-committal and let the strained conversation break off like a strand of cobweb as I searched for something else in the room I could focus my attention on.

So, besides my regular trips to the gym, I mostly stayed home that week. Fong Zhu’s dinner date wasn’t even a thought on my mind. But come the next Sunday, Fong Zhu was back in Ann’s pew, and as soon as people had filed through the pastor’s handshake line, she found me and approached me with a wounded look in her eyes.

“Why?” she asked me tenderly, why didn’t I come over to her home? I was stuck for an answer, taken aback that she was not only seriously expecting me, a relative stranger, to come to her home alone, but that she was also insistent on inviting me again. Seeing how much it meant to her by the plaintive tone in her voice and the look in her eyes, I took note of her address and made a firm yet doubtful promise to join her for lunch that Tuesday. Being unemployed, I could not honestly have said that my schedule was full.

Tentatively, I drove over to her university apartment and rang the doorbell. Fong Zhu had a Russian roommate named Olga, who was gone at the time, so after she cheerily greeted me with a “Ni hao!” and invited me inside, all I saw in the unlit interior were newspaper and magazine ads sprawled across the kitchen table and hard floors, a couple lamps on end tables, a world map pinned to the wall with American travel pictures posted around it, and a couple pots boiling mystery items on the stove. For lunch, we had a mound of pork dumplings that far exceeded what we could possibly eat, and Fong Zhu introduced me to boiled chicken feet. The first try left a bad impression- all sinewy and you had to chomp the little toe bones in your mouth to grind off the meat- but I’ve since grown to like them depending on the seasoning.

At a (birthday) dinner with Aunt Fong.

At a (birthday) dinner with Aunt Fong.

At another lunch at her place, she served me ham hocks (basically, all the meat and fat around a pig’s knee joint) which I honestly found to be exquisite. I asked her where she found all this exotic food, and she told me simply, “Wo-er Ma.”

“Walmart? You found all this stuff at Walmart?”

I checked up on this and found out it was indeed true. It was just unusual to find them on my local Walmart’s shelves because the small number of feet and hocks were snatched up, usually, by Chinese families or other outre diners.

Anyway, Fong Zhu and I chatted away despite our mutual incomprehension, she peppering me with questions and I doing my best to give the simplest answers in the clearest English possible. I would struggle to get her to answer my own questions, but would more often than not become frustrated by her clumsy English and loose, wandering thought patterns. Still, when the sputtering dialogue came to one of its frequent impasses, I felt comfortable enough to sit quietly with my new companion and bide my time. I couldn’t tell why, but she was motherly attentive to me, and I felt fascinated to be speaking at length with someone so completely foreign. Plus, I had no pressing job responsibilities or social obligations, and I was so unsure of how to proceed in our meeting- petrified of trying to break things off and make my exit- so I had all the patience in the world.

That would come in handy, as Fong Zhu and I started meeting about twice a week for intermittent conversation fragments, her cheery and zany speeches that would turn into singing and dancing, and our bumbling efforts at language study. For that last part, we would review Chinese vocabulary lists and Fong’s sheets of simple English sentences with their Chinese translations. I think she was just printing free materials she found online, and we would just jump around the word sheets, but we would spend a whole afternoon doing it, so it gave me the hope that I had the discipline and opportunity to actually learn Chinese- reputed to be one of the hardest languages in the world for English speakers to acquire.

I never complained about the time spent or the indeterminate way we studied. I was just so thirsty to learn a foreign language and enamored with the fact that a new strange person had come into my life and offered me so much attention. The day she told me it was impolite for me, a younger person, to call her by her given name or her family name unadorned, it felt only natural to use the Chinese term she taught me for “aunt.” And when Aunt Fong started proposing to me, “You… come to China?” I felt enough trust in our friendship that I began to put my confidence in coming to China as the opportunity I had been looking for.

Of course, I had my doubts that caused me to hesitate, but I had been set for so long on coming to Asia that I could not turn away from a real and tangible offer that had the benefit of a friend’s guidance. It did not matter so much to me that I had never heard of the university where Fong Zhu’s professor husband was able to get me a job, and it didn’t matter so much that every other detail was foggy either. I had been trapped in a pit of loneliness and unemployment, or wrong employment, for so long that I was ready to rocket out of it, and I felt certain that my hopes would be met. It was almost too perfect that this woman, my new aunt, came into my life right at the time the sagging trough I had bottomed out in broke open and dropped me into a void of thought I could only have dreamed my way out of.

After Aunt Fong left Iowa on a snowy December day, I spent plenty more unemployed time thinking over her offer and hashing it over with her through e-mail. As unknown and exotic as this adventure was, it began to seem more and more real to me, the obvious and only choice to make. And, for years, I had been starving for someone to pay me close attention, mentor me, and give me their full friendship. Aunt Fong was too flighty to be a mentor, and not really the kind of person I would look to for that, but she and I already had bonded inexplicably like relatives, and I trusted her to be my guide in the supremely populous People’s Republic of China.

China had to be the hopeful thing I knew it would be.

The next months passed as a period of waiting and preparation before the beginning of the fall semester in China. I felt ready because of what I had known all along- it was time to leave.

Aunt Fong and Caili Ma – Part 1: From Iowa to Chinatown

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Suddenly, there was a Chinese woman in my church. In the midst of a sea of German surnames, half-strangers repeating their Sunday routines of sleepy sermons, handshakes with ho-hum greetings, coffee and juice and cookies and bars over featureless pleasant talk of football games and school holidays and college majors and soup suppers, and me having the same words on the Ten Commandments and free grace being shuffled through the same worn paths in my mind while my heart ached like young Joseph in Egypt as a slave, seemingly denied his grand dreams, or Moses in Egypt as a young man yearning to flee the glut of sensual opulence for a humble place out past the wilderness with the children of God- there, in the midst of this rut we were all ready to customarily cycle through again, sitting in a pew beside the 90-year old former school teacher whose slowed speech and movement belied her keen wit, sat a middle-aged Chinese woman, whom I vaguely dreamed of but never expected to find, in my church.

Of course, that first week, I was too meek and shy to approach her, and I could think of no excuse to broach a conversation besides my teeming curiosity. But all the traditional church routines repeat themselves without variance- week after week, no questions brooked- and this Chinese woman seemed to be getting along quite well with the oldest member of our church. Strangely, it seemed as if she would be returning next week and becoming part of the pattern. And maybe, just maybe, I thought within my timid soul, I would meet her, and I would have my stepping stone, or my bridge, to something new.

Me with Caili

Me with Caili

A year before, I had made a desperate attempt to escape my inertia. I could find no social or business chain to link me to my dreams, but a thought had been growing in me since college that my way out to a new world, where I would have the chance to work and pursue the life I believed in, where I would have the chance to be someone, where I could experience the far-off lands I was secretly infatuated with, was through teaching English overseas.

While this daydream grew and I nurtured it by scouring websites and forums online, I stumbled in that I had no outside experience to justify taking the giant leap from my local part-time job at a failing small business to a teaching position at a school in the Eastern Hemisphere.

At first, I thought I could only justify such a venture by going to graduate school. I had studied English in college, which was a good fit for teaching English as a second language (ESL), but I avoided any teaching classes at the time, thinking that becoming an average public school teacher meant becoming an average person. It would mean a trade-off from aspiring to advance my own work and beliefs in whatever adventurous frontier I might find myself, towards subordinating myself to the soft ultimatums of my conforming, contemporary society. Teaching in America would mean a respectable job, yes, and insurance and health benefits, job security and a strong résumé, the chance to be an upstanding member of the community and form a social network and start a family and buy a house and get fat and have vacations and plan a retirement and live a middle-class life with conventional middle-class opinions and aspirations and all that. But at what cost? Live a predictable life because I knew it would be safe and insulated from risk or challenge or isolation or failure? And let my greater beliefs quietly cool and die? Live and die the easy way? No, that was not what life was meant for.

Except, now that I had reached the conclusion that overseas English jobs were my best gateway to opportunity, the value of teaching training had become so much more sensible. I began to have regrets and considered that the only way to rectify the situation and prepare myself for a life abroad would be a master’s degree.

I went so far as to complete an application at my local university and alma mater when a chance meeting with an old acquaintance changed my course. He advised me from personal experience that grad school for teaching English to speakers of other languages (TESOL) was, like all master’s degree programs, time-consuming and very expensive, and considering all the overseas schools that were hiring American teachers with any and all undergraduate degrees, largely unnecessary.

“Don’t be like me,” he said playfully, “because then you’ll have a lot of student loan and credit card debt, and you’ll feel stressed, and you won’t be happy.”

To be happy, he suggested, take a 4-week intensive ESL teaching course instead, one that is nuts and bolts in scope, and comes from an internationally well-respected school. Or, just apply directly to the English program for public schools in South Korea.

Since Korea had already been on my mind and my friendly adviser assured me about it from his own experience, I thought why not? What is there holding me back now?

I let my acceptance letter to grad school sit unanswered, and right thereafter I began filling out forms online, working through the months long, fastidious process of gathering documents like letters of recommendation, a federal background check, and a notary-stamped diploma.

I wavered along the way, still without any teaching training or classroom experience yet to prepare me for the looming test of being stood in front of a group of Korean students and occupying their attention for forty minutes in a foreign language. And each week, and each drawn-out task of document collecting, seemed to chip away at my initial enthusiasm. I had a struggle to raise my confidence to explain this foreign quest I was up to whenever anyone asked about my work plans and why I was biding my time at a hole-in-the-wall retail shop. This adventure seemed to be receding further away into fantasyland, more and more remote in possibility.

It certainly lost urgency for my then manager, who took weeks of diffident prodding to finally sit down and write me a recommendation letter. In fact, he took so long that I missed out on entering Korea’s national program- the number of applicants was already full.

As consolation, I was informed that I could switch my application to a similar program for the province outside Seoul.

At this point, I was faced with another unexpected choice. Immediately after I heard that I had missed the initial intake, a friend from my gym started talking to me about a job referral at the the company where he worked. By this time, my doubts were beginning to eclipse my eagerness to teach overseas. My original prayer was that God would pull me out of the forgotten pit I was in, set me up with respectable work and a clear mission in life, and make a real man out of me. So, when I went to go have a look at my friend’s local company and saw fast-talking adults dressed in business wear, shuttling around the smart expanses of a new building, busying themselves on their computers, and calling owners and managers across the country with seemingly urgent business, I felt the pull. The chance to be a respectable adult looked so immediately before me. And when the hiring manager told me a good first year would mean $50,000, I reasoned that not only would the experience give me the chance to prove myself, the money I made would allow me to travel Asia however I wanted- self-sufficient.

I turned the pending job offer in Korea down.

It would prove a mistake I had to live with.

The next nine months I spent tenuously hanging onto a hated job that my friend summed up as “glorified telemarketing.” The dirty business was all about breaking through the defensive lines of secretaries and middle men, then pressuring the checkbook holder at whichever car dealership was being called to sign up for a junk mail campaign designed by our company. I look on the whole enterprise now with complete revulsion, and also I react with disbelief that I could have been so naive and weak to think my continued employment there meant I had a no-quit attitude like a real man should, when I see clearly in hindsight that since making pushy cold calls was so loudly against my conscience it would only have been in keeping with my integrity to have walked into my manager’s cubicle as early as I sensed so and quit on the spot.

And while I state this with indignation, to my shame I followed my managers’ and co-workers’ aggressive advice as best as my unsure, awkward self could. I harried many weary secretaries, and in the off-chance I didn’t end up in voicemail, I made modest and embarrassed pushes to follow my boss’s instructions to harass the dealership managers into buying until they either did so or I “made them hang up on me.”

Midway through my futile struggle to maintain employment is when I was introduced to Ma Caili, or following Western conventions of family name last, Caili Ma. Sure enough, as I had predicted, she was back in the church pew the next week with her elderly friend, Ann. And my hope to meet her did not go unfulfilled. Caili Ma was spirited enough in her pursuit of learning English and meeting Americans that she had already met with the church pastor for language exchange and Bible study. He told me all about it when he suggested to me that, given my background as an English major and interest in teaching overseas, I might be the best person to meet with Caili.

So, I happily did, albeit nervously and without a clear idea of how I should proceed.

Our first Sunday afternoon meeting, I struck out after attempting to have Caili read a Dr. Seuss book aloud while I critiqued her pronunciation. She must have been less than impressed with my lesson (I feel embarrassed looking back on it) since from then on she initiated teaching Chinese lessons to me. This arrangement worked itself out naturally for the rest of the Sunday afternoons that summer. I was very curious to begin a language study of Chinese, and come to find out, Caili had been a Chinese language teacher over the past six years when she had been living in South Korea, so she already had a methodology worked out to teach me. She thought I was a clever student, I felt very lucky to have her tutor me, and so we progressed through the basics of Chinese until I could have back-and-forth conversations with her by speaking the simplest of phrases like “Who is he?” and “He is a man.”

Meanwhile, I helped Caili out with favors like rides to the supermarket, taking her around used-car shopping, and eventually, giving her driving lessons. In all her years living in China and South Korea, Caili had either relied on public transportation or her rich Korean boyfriend’s chauffeur. Living in America, without owning a car, meant Caili was dependent on others for not just simple errands around town, but also in determining what work she could do and where she could live.

Caili had told me that she wanted to live permanently in the United States. She assured me it was a better country to live in than China by far, it would give her the grounds to sponsor her teenage daughter and bring her to America for college, and now that Caili was a baptized Christian, she would no longer be welcome to resume her professorship back in China among the officially Communist faculty.

But life in Iowa didn’t have enough to offer to keep Caili in place. Sure, she had her close friends like Ann and me that she would have to make her tearful goodbyes to, but her student visa at the local university was about to expire, and she needed to find work and a home of her own.The obvious choice to Caili was to join up with one of her friends in Los Angeles and find work among the network of people she was bound to meet in Chinatown.

And although her friends in town rightly told her she was crazy for the idea, Caili was determined to drive herself in her new (used) car all the way out to the West Coast. So, I mapped out the tamest route of six-hour driving days I could find for her, booked six nights of hotel stays along the way, and just like that, after only a couple months of driving experience and a couple seasons of brief but bright friendship, Caili was off to California.

Our quiet college town couldn’t keep her in place, and I couldn’t say it had much attraction left for me either. My time at my sales job was clearly coming to a close- I was at the point where it was obvious not only to myself in the dejected way I dialed the receptionists I knew would mechanically send me off to a voice mailbox without any confrontation, but also to my formerly friendly manager who had lost sympathy for me as the not even lukewarm leads I used to bring him dried up. I was making neither progress nor money for a company whose lifeblood, vision, and creed were all money and its making.

The only things keeping me in my place were my inability to muster the courage to outright quit and my lack of another job to transition to, so I can’t say it came as a surprise when my manager called me in for a late Friday afternoon meeting, accompanied by the Human Resources lady.

After drying my tears in the bathroom, I went out to the empty sales floor to shamefully clear off my desk as upbeat pop music softly echoed from the speaker system, then drove home with the familiar gray horizon of unemployment before me.

In my doldrums again, I had no thought for another job or career track- nothing I could realistically approach- and I suppose I would have been left to my own listless devices if it had not been for another unlikely meeting just a few weeks prior.

A gray horizon and a mysteriously winding path.

A gray horizon and a mysteriously winding path.

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